Since 1955 Linoleum City has proudly provided floor covering to the
Portland Metro Area
Locally Owned
and Operated
Since 1955

Located On Martin
Luther King Jr. BLVD
6 Blocks South of


Monday - Friday
8:30am - 5:30 pm

9:00 am - 4:00 pm

Closed Sunday
Carpet Care: Preventive Maintenance
Easy, proactive steps will keep your carpet looking good over time.

Don't track dirt inside
Placing walk-off mats outside all entrances will help absorb soil and moisture and trap excessive dirt, sand, grit, oil, asphalt, or driveway sealer that might
otherwise be tracked into the home. Clean mats on a regular basis (or sooner, when they need it) so they don't become sources of soil themselves.
Use a quality pad
A good carpet pad not only gives better resilience and comfort underfoot, it can extend the life of your carpet, especially on stairs. Because some
carpets carry warranties with specific density and thickness requirements, be sure and review your warranty before purchasing your pad. Explore
varieties of carpet pad.
Occasionally move heavy furniture
Moving your furniture on occasion won't just renew the feel of your room, it will also help avoid excessive pile crushing. Also consider using carpet
protectors under the legs of tables, chairs, and other furniture to help distribute the weight. Damage can occur if you use chairs or appliances with rollers
or casters without a chair pad designed specifically for carpet.
Protect carpet when moving furniture
When moving heavy wheeled furniture (pianos, buffets, etc.), prevent damage by placing a protective barrier of heavy cardboard or plywood between the
wheels and the carpet.
Clean your area rugs
If you use area rugs on your carpet, be sure to clean them regularly, and make sure you clean and restore the pile of the carpet underneath as well.
Also, be sure to check area rugs for colorfastness before placing them on carpet because the color in some rugs may bleed through. After cleaning your
carpet, allow it to dry completely before replacing rugs.
Reduce periods of direct sunlight
Protect your carpet from prolonged periods of direct sunlight with blinds, shades, or awnings.
Vacuum frequently for long-term beauty
The most important step in caring for your carpet is vacuuming it thoroughly and frequently, particularly in high-traffic areas. Walking on soiled carpet
allows the soil particles to work their way below the surface of the pile where they are far more difficult to remove and can damage the carpet fibers.
Frequent vacuuming removes these particles from the surface before problems occur. For rooms with light traffic, vacuum the carpet traffic lanes twice
weekly and the entire area once weekly. In areas with heavy traffic, vacuum the carpet traffic lanes daily and the entire area twice weekly. Up to three
passes of the machine will suffice for light soiling, but five to seven passes are necessary for heavily soiled areas. Change the vacuuming direction
occasionally to help stand the pile upright and reduce matting.
Extend the life of your carpet with a quality vacuum
An inexpensive machine may remove surface dirt but will not effectively remove the hidden dirt and particles embedded in the pile. Invest in a good
vacuum cleaner to get the dirt you can't see and prolong the beauty and life of your carpet. To ensure that your vacuum will conform to the highest
industry standards, make sure that your vacuum cleaner is certified through the Carpet and Rug Institute (CRI) Seal of Approval/Green Label Vacuum
Cleaner Program. Visit for details and listings.
Select the best vacuum for your type of carpet
Shaw recommends using vacuums with a rotating brush or combination beater/brush bar that agitates the carpet pile and mechanically loosens soil for
removal. Carpet with thick loop pile construction, particularly wool and wool-blend styles, may be sensitive to brushing or rubbing of the pile surface and
may become fuzzy. In addition, shag (or cabled) styles with long pile yarns tend to wrap around the rotating brushes causing damage to the yarn.  For
these products, Shaw recommends a suction-only vacuum or a vacuum with an adjustable brush lifted away from the carpet so it does not agitate the
pile. Be sure to test a vacuum with a beater/brush bar in an inconspicuous location before regular use, to make sure it doesn't produce excessive fuzzing.
Stain solutions for your carpet
No carpet is stain proof, but since many are stain resistant, you have time to act. Select your stain from the drop-down menu to get specific instructions,
or refer to the general guidelines below. Remove as much of food spills as possible by scraping the carpet gently with a spoon or a dull knife. Absorb wet
spills quickly by blotting repeatedly with white paper or white cloth towels. Always blot; never rub or scrub abrasively, as a fuzzy area may result. When
blotting, work from the outer edge in toward the center of the spot to avoid spreading the spill. Remove the stain using one of the cleaning items from the
checklist below. Rinse the cleaned carpet area with water to remove detergent residue that may become sticky and cause rapid re-soiling. Absorb any
remaining moisture by placing several layers of white towels over the spot and weighing them down with a heavy object. This step is necessary even
when the carpet doesn't seem particularly damp. Contact Shaw's Information Center at 800-441-7429 if previous removal procedures have not been
successful.  Do not over apply or use excessive chemicals. Many Shaw carpets feature branded fibers and these companies offer their own warranties
and requirements for carpet care.  Use the following for spot removal and care information:  
Invista Stainmaster:  800-438-7668
Solutia Wear-Dated:  800-633-3208
Anso:  800-441-8185

Protect your carpet color
In addition to frequent vacuuming, its important to clean your carpet on a regular basis. Cleaning systems will remove the oily, sticky soil that vacuums
can't take out, and will help keep your carpet looking great over time.
Cleaning systems target the soils that result from cooking vapors, air pollution, and tracked-in dirt. The particles of oily soil deposited on carpet fibers
can cause gradual but significant dulling of colors. The color isn't lost, but is hidden under the film. If this type of soil is allowed to accumulate, it begins to
attract and hold the dry soil.
Get on a cleaning schedule
If carpet is cleaned before it becomes too unsightly, the cleaning chore will be easier and more successful. Carpet in a typical household should be
cleaned every 12 to 18 months, depending on the number of residents and amount of activity.
Choosing the proper cleaning system is important. Some systems may leave residues which accelerate re-soiling and defeats the whole purpose of
Shaws choice: Hot water extraction
Research indicates that the hot water extraction system provides the best capability for cleaning. This system is commonly referred to as "steam
cleaning," although no steam is actually generated. The process consists of applying a cleaning agent into the carpet pile and using water in the
extractor to recover the used solution and soil.  This can be done from a truck-mounted unit outside the home with only the hose and wand brought
inside or by a portable system brought into the home. Shaw warranties require that the homeowner be able to show proof of periodic cleaning by hot
water extraction (commonly called "steam" cleaning) by a professional cleaning service or do-it-yourself system, using equipment that is certified under
the Carpet and Rug Institute's Seal of Approval program. Visit for a list of approved products/equipment.
Professional advantages
Professional carpet cleaners are a great choice for your floor. Their cleaning equipment has more extraction power than the rental units available to
individuals, and the carpet should dry more quickly. True professionals also understand the equipment, know the proper cleaning agents for the situation
at hand, and recognize the differences in fibers and carpet construction.
Locate a professional carpet cleaner
Effective January 1, 2008, professional service must be performed by an IICRC (Institute of Inspection, Cleaning and Restoration Certification) certified
firm.** You may contact the IICRC at 1-800-835-4624 for information. This organization maintains a national directory of independent professional
cleaners who are trained and certified in a variety of cleaning specialties. Call and explain that you have purchased a Shaw carpet, and be sure to ask
for a cleaner near you who uses the hot water extraction system. If you prefer tackling the job yourself, check these do-it-yourself guidelines before you
What about spot and stain removal?
Shaw's R2X Stain and Soil Remover is the only carpet cleaning product with the endorsement consumers have trusted for more than 100 years: the
Good Housekeeping Seal. Because of our patented process, it's even easier to use than most spot cleaners.  Our recommended spotting product also
has the Wool Safe Certificate of Accreditation and the Carpet and Rug Institute's Seal of Approval. Routine spot removal- research has shown that many
products sold for do-it-yourself spot removal clean poorly and their residues attract soil on the cleaned area rapidly afterward. The Carpet and Rug
Institute's Seal of Approval program tests and certifies products that meet stringent standards and thus clean effectively, without damage to your carpet
Do-It-Yourself Carpet Cleaning
If you decide to rent a steam cleaning machine and clean your carpet yourself, you'll need to choose your equipment carefully. Most rental units available
do not adequately clean and may actually damage the carpet. Do-it-yourself system equipment and cleaning products must be certified under the Carpet
and Rug Institute's Seal of Approval program. Visit for a list of approved products/equipment. Check several cleaning systems before
making a selection and consider the following: Make sure the carpet will dry quickly
The cleaning equipment you select should have enough vacuum power to allow the carpet to dry within 6 to 12 hours after cleaning. Units that do not
have the power to extract the cleaning solution from the carpet adequately may actually damage the carpet due to over wetting. Do not get the carpet too
wet Prolonged dampness more than 24 hours may promote growth of mold and bacteria in the carpet or cause separation of the backing. Do not use
excessive detergent Use a cleaning solution with a pH less than 10, preferably near 9, and with a minimum of non sticky residue. The attraction between
the detergent and the soil and oil particles is critical during the cleaning process. However, if it isn't rinsed completely, the detergent residue continues to
attract the particles after cleaning. Increasing the amount of cleaning solution beyond the recommended level does not increase cleaning performance,
but makes the removal of detergent more difficult. Because buildup of detergent residue is the most common cause of accelerated re-soiling complaints,
Shaw also recommends a clear-water rinse after cleaning.
Know your warranty guidelines
Carpet with stain resistant treatments must be cleaned with products formulated for this purpose, or the stain resistance will be impaired and the warranty
voided. Do not use cleaning or spotting solutions that contain bleaches or optical brighteners because they can discolor the carpet.  Please refer to
(Homeowner Obligations) for additional information.
Do not use silicone-based anti-soil treatments
Use fans to expedite drying time
Reduce drying time by using several fans to move air across the carpet in combination with a dehumidifier or air conditioner to pull moisture out of the
Wood Floors

I have small gaps between the boards of my hardwood floor. Is this normal?
Almost every wood floor endures some expansion and contraction as seasons and humidity levels change. When homes are heated during winter,
humidity levels drop, causing boards to shrink and spaces to appear between the boards. In dry months, cracks can easily develop to the thickness of a
dime on a typical solid 2-1/4" oak floor, with light-colored woods making the cracks appear larger.
Plank floors also will show cracks more. These spaces are to be expected and usually close up as the season changes and moisture returns to the air.
To reduce the degree of change, home owners can add moisture to the air during the dry months, ideally by installing a humidifier in the furnace.

I've had some water damage from my fridge/dishwasher/etc. What is going to happen to my wood floor now?
First of all, you should contact your homeowners insurance. Usually they will walk you through a process, and tell you to go out and get a bid for possibly
refinishing or re-installation of the floors. Most of the time you will just have to pay a deductible.
There are three things that can or will happen to your floors:
As with cracks between boards both cupping and crowning are natural reactions to moisture and should not be a concern if they occur only to a minor
extent. More severe cases, however indicate a serious moisture problem.
"Cupping" describes a condition in which the edges of a board are high and its center is lower. Humidity is usually the culprit, although cupping also can
happen after water has been spilled onto the floor and absorbed into the wood. The moisture causes the wood to swell, crushing the boards together
and deforming them at the edges. In order to repair the floor, the cause of the moisture must be identified. Most often, indoor humidity will have to be
controlled. Other causes could include situations such as a plumbing leak in the basement, which can allow moisture to migrate up into the subfloor and
the wood flooring.
Once the cause of the moisture is controlled, cupping usually can be reversed. Often times the floor may naturally dry out and improve over time. Fans
may be necessary to speed the drying process. After the floor has dried, it may be necessary to recoat the floor with finish, or to sand and refinish the
"Crowning" is the opposite of cupping: The middle of the board is higher than the edges of the board. This can occur when the surface of the floor
encounters moisture. More often, it results when a floor has been sanded too soon after it has cupped. When this happens, the top edges of the board
are sanded off, and thus are lower than the rest of the board when it returns to a normal moisture content.
Buckling is one of the most extreme reactions to moisture that can occur with a hardwood floor. It happens when the floor literally pulls away from the
subfloor, up to heights as high as several inches. Fortunately, buckling is an uncommon occurrence, usually happening only after a floor has been

How do I prevent my floors from becoming warped or damaged?  
Controlling humidity is the most important factor in preventing problems with moisture and your wood floor. The correct maintenance also will go a long
way in avoiding problems.  
Among the key points:
Clean your wood floor with a cloth lightly dampened with the recommended cleaning product, using the manufacturer's directions for us. It is best to buy
a "floor care kit" recommended by your wood floor installer or retailer.

Why should I install a hardwood floor instead of carpet?  
The medical advantages alone as far as coping with dust in carpet versus hardwood is by far an excellent reason to go with hardwood floors.
Homeowners and businesses have begun to realize the added advantage of hardwood floors- not only are they natural and biodegradable, and add to
the value of your home, but they're also the floor of choice for those suffering from allergic reactions to dust and mold collected by carpets.
*The Environmental Advantage
Now that we're deep into the "green" movement, homeowners working to keep their houses environmentally sound as possible will be interested to know
that most carpet is completely synthetic and does not biologically decompose. The Carpet and Rug Institute in Dalton, Georgia reports that current
shipments of carpet in the United States exceed 3.9 billion square feet annually. That's a lot of carpet that will eventually find its way to our country's
overloaded landfills.  
*The Medical Advantage
Coping with dust in the home is a familiar chore for everyone. Not only does it make a house look unattractive and neglected, but for those people
allergic to dust or those whose asthma is triggered by the substance, it can cause a great deal of discomfort.
The National Jewish Center, named one of the nation's ten best hospitals in America, suggests hardwood floors as one method of reducing household
dust. The center also has identified molds and animal dander as a hazard for people with respiratory problems. Molds and animal dander can become
embedded in carpet and are impossible to eliminate by vacuuming alone.
The Great Debate- Hardwood Floors vs. Carpet- Bonakemi USA

How long will a wood floor last?
With proper care, hardwood floors can last the lifetime of a home or business. Wood floors are easier to maintain than ever, and they add value to any

How much does it cost to install a new wood floor, or refinish an existing hardwood floor?  
It all depends on what species of wood you have currently, or what you will want to install, and the square footage of your area that you want to
install/refinish. We'd be more than happy to give you a free ballpark quote over the phone, or even come out and do a free in-home estimate and figure
out exactly how much it would cost to do.

I recently just bought a house, and know nothing about the finish or what kind of wood is on the floors. How do I clean my hardwood
floors now?
First try a water test and see if there is a wax on the floors. Start by putting a small amount of water on the floor to see if it beads up or clouds the wood.
It if it does cloud up, chances are there is some kind of residue, such as a wax or an oil soap- most likely a wax on your floor. Until you are ready to do a
complete sand & refinish of your floor, you will need to continue to wax the floors and buff them. If the floors do not cloud up, you are most likely in luck,
and may or may not have a Swedish finish on your floors.  
To clean and maintain the quality of any kind of wood floors:
•        Sweep and vacuum floors regularly.
•        Place floor protectors on the feet of all your furniture.
•        Remove spills promptly and wipe the area with Ryerson Floors Cleaner (or small amount of water) and wipe the area with a soft cloth.
•        Use doormats at all exterior entrances to trap sand and grit before it enters the house.
•        Use area rugs on high traffic pathways and especially on pivot areas such as the ends of steps and in doorways.
•        Rugs should allow the floor to "breathe". Avoid rugs with rubber backing or other non-ventilating material.
Normally, first cleaning should be dry mopping, dusting, and vacuuming/sweeping your hardwood floors.
Do not let sand and grit build up.
Avoid walking on your floor in high heels. They can severely damage wood floors. Keep heels in good repair.
For Swedish Finished Floors:
If the floors look like they need more than just dry mopping, use a slightly damp mop (no Oil Soap!!) and a little bit of water and just spot mop your floors.
Do not just dump a bunch of water on your floors, or let any maid services dump water buckets on the floor and push the water around to clean the
floors. This is almost a guarantee that your floors will warp.
Do not use wax, oil soap or other household cleaners on your wood floor. The use of these products can dull today's waterborne floor finishes and make
refinishing more difficult.
Cleaning your hardwood floor once ever 1-2 weeks is recommended. Frequency for general cleaning depends on the amount of traffic on your floors.
MARMOLEUM (Linoleum)
cleanse. maintain.protect

Dry dusting is a fast and easy way to keep your floor free from loose dirt and protect your floor from sharp furniture legs by placing furniture caps or
similar protectors on them. Avoid excessive use of water on the floor, and make sure chair and furniture legs are covered with felt protectors. An entrance
mat will protect the floor from dirt.

Initial Care
  1. Sweep/dust mop, or better still, vacuum the floor.
  2. Damp mop the floor with Marmoleum Floor Cleaner at the correct dilution. Do Not Flood the floor. Marmoleum is made from natural raw materials
    and harsh alkalis or cleaners with high Ph (such as Ammonia or similar products) should be avoided.
  3. Rinse the floor with a clean mop.
  4. Allow to dry.

Regular Care
Sweep, dust mop, damp mop and /or vacuum as needed. For ingrained dirt, a scrubbing sponge (non-abrasive) or nylon brush is  ideal.

Spots & Spills
The vast majority of spills, including pet accidents, can be cleaned off your Marmoleum floor.
  1. Act quickly.
  2. Scrape or blot as much as possible.
  3. Mop with diluted Marmoleum Cleaner.
  4. Damp mop with clean water.
  5. Repeat steps 3 & 4 if necessary.

If the stain persists, as it may with glue, varnish, paint, ink, tar, cosmetics, shoe polish, some wines, coffee and some other substances, the solution is to
remove the surface finish and the stain with it. Apply undiluted Marmoleum cleaner to the affected area and leave in contact with the floor for 2-3 minutes.
Rub the stained area with a nylon kitchen pad then rinse with clean water. Repeat if necessary. Once dry, apply a small amount of finish.

Restorative Care
In case of accidental damage to the Topshield top layer, excessive wear or desire for additional gloss, the following steps can be taken:
  1. Sweep/dust mop, or better still vacuum the floor.
  2. Scrub floor using undiluted Marmoleum floor cleaner.
  3. Rinse thoroughly and allow to dry.
  4. Repeat steps 2 & 3 if necessary.
  5. Apply 2 THIN coats of Marmoleum Floor Finish. Use a clean lint-free cloth, or better still, a well squeezed out fresh mop head and apply the finish
    evenly, working backwards. Make sure you do not apply finish to wall base, carpets, furniture, etc. ALLOW THE FINISH TO DRY BETWEEN COATS
    (usually 30-40 minutes). If you prefer a higher gloss level, apply a third thin coat. Never apply more than 3 coats of finish in a 24 hour period.
Keeping Your Vinyl Floor As Good As New

Over the years, vinyl flooring has earned its place as the most popular flooring material for kitchens, bathrooms, playrooms and other high activity areas.
As expected, high activity areas require more attention, but the ease of cleaning and maintaining vinyl just secures its place as the favored flooring for
busy rooms.

Regular care of vinyl floors is amazingly simple. Daily vacuuming, sweeping or mopping will help maintain the original shine and color of a vinyl floor for
years. Quick clean up of spots and spills with a mild detergent and water will prevent discoloration of the flooring, and a weekly or bi-weekly cleaning with
a commercial floor cleaner keeps the floor looking as good as new.

Before mopping with a cleaning solution, sweep the floor thoroughly to remove as much dust, lint and loose dirt as possible. Then simply mop with the
solution to remove the more stubborn dirt from the floor. Be sure to rinse the floor with clean water after mopping with the detergent solution; residue
from the detergent can form a sticky film on the vinyl that clouds the finish and attracts more dirt.

Many commercial floor cleaning “protectors“ and “polishes” are available on the market that provide a glossy surface and seal to the vinyl. However,
some of these are not appropriate for all vinyl floors, and may in fact dull the floor rather than polish it. Those suitable for vinyl floors will coat the surface
to reduce wear and tear, and add an additional sheen to the surface. Inappropriate polishes will only dull the floor. Check your flooring manufacturer’s
recommendations before using any of these floor polishing products.

As often as twice a year, you may want to “strip” your vinyl floor. A stripping solution (often provided by the manufacturer when your vinyl floor is
installed) removes the inevitable buildup of oils and soap residues that even careful mopping cannot always get. The stripping solution should return
your vinyl floor to its original condition, and allow regular cleaning to continue to maintain the floors shine.

There are also commercial refinishing products for vinyl floors. These are rarely used, and in fact are only appropriate where heavy wear has worn the
surface of the vinyl floor away. The refinisher will reseal the vinyl and add a new lustrous coating to its surface, but should be used only when the vinyl
floor’s original surface has been compromised, not as a polish. If you use a commercial refinishing product, follow the manufacturer’s directions carefully.

Vinyl flooring is tough, but still subject to scratches, dents and tears. It is a good idea to use felt pads under all furniture legs that are placed on vinyl
floors. Also, the slick, shiny appearance of well-maintained vinyl floors makes sliding furniture seem easy, but it’s not a good idea. Always lift furniture off
the vinyl when moving it.

With simple, regular care your vinyl floors should remain beautiful for years.
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